![]() ![]() Unfortunately, the markets are far from the seas where these fish are caught, so my first step in cooking, regardless of the preparation, is always the same: I give them a quick rinse with vinegar to wash away their travel fatigue. In my Stateside life, I am drawn to some of the wonderful fish available here but largely unknown in Italy: wild salmon from the Pacific Northwest, Alaskan halibut, pink arctic char. ![]() I add mustard to the sauce in fond recollection of a delicious Ada Boni recipe that Victor and I discovered more than half a century ago and made with one of our few wedding presents, a rare and precious lobster. To further protect the fish from drying out, I've also adopted the practice of the fishermen in my native town, Cesenatico, who marinate their catch under olive oil–soaked bread crumbs. She lives in Venice, Italy, and Longboat Key, Florida. From them, too, I have learned to use the gentler heat of the oven, which helps to retain moisture, as an alternative to the high heat of the grill. Marcella Hazan, the acknowledged godmother of Italian cooking in America, is the author of The Classic Italian Cookbook, More Classic Italian Cooking, Marcella's Italian kitchen, and Essentials of Italian Cooking. ![]() ![]() From Venetian cooks, I have borrowed the ethereal scent of thyme, which they prefer to the pungency of oregano, and a fondness for using butter along with olive oil. I owe my most recent version of salmoriglio to many sources: to the years I have lived in Venice, to the place I came from and to the place where I live now. ![]()
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